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Old 01-28-2012, 05:28 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicksranger01 View Post
i know with my ranger you cant just change the upper ball joint, it's the entire upper control arm with the bushings that get changed
yea this is what i was thinking of
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:30 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Redneck_ranger View Post
Alright, I've had multiple threads up about this for the longest time. I'm not lowering the torsion bars because one of the nuts is rounding off, and I ain't touching it. I heard from friends tonight that there were problems with the upper control arms at some point in time, which he is looking up for me. I want to replace my tie rods and ball joints next summer, and might possibly be looking at the control arms too just to have everything new. Anybody want to chime in on parts that will I may want to change out to correct this problem? Sick of looking at...... THISVVVVV
Okay.....first things first. How many miles on the truck? How long have you owned it? Have you done any suspension replacement as of yet? That'll determine a good amount of what's been going on with your truck. Alot of folks don't replace things until they break. And if you've got some 120k+ miles on the ride, well then, we know what's going on. BJ's, outer rod ends, uppers(GET ALL MOOGS!!!!). I'd even suggest getting adjustable cam-bolts for the upper arms. Stock, there's virtually no caster/camber adjustment. If you run cranked bars or even untouched bars, you'll want cam-bolts(Ingalls #29000 from Summit). Then a full complete thorough alignment with two good tires up front. Can't align with two horribly effed up tires!! lol. RockAuto has great prices on Moog stuff and it's who I went through.

With that much crazy angle and apparently everything "good", I'd start to suspect the bearings/hubs. Jack the truck up and wiggle the tire at 12 and 6, in and out. If there's give, you need bearings. Timken/Timkin brand would be the best there. See vid below:

Mine has about 140k on it and I just now finally had my alignment done. Did BJ's at about 70k, outer rod ends at about 115k along with bearings after a failure. NEVER having done it before after buying it at only 30k, just eyeballed. Now I have new tires and want them to actually last. I've got the superlift up front, fox coil-overs, and upper cam-bolts. It's dead freaking on. Couldn't be happier with how it drives now.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneck_ranger View Post
I have no clue if that's required. Alright, here's my list of parts to replace....
Ball joints (all)
Upper control arms and bushings
Tie rods (both inner and outer)

Anything else I should change while I'm there?
Shouldn't have to do inners. I thought mine were moving and needing done but the frame shop called 'em good.

FYI: BJ's are built into the arms.....therefore if you order upper joints, you're getting arms. That's why the price is HUUUUGE for those compared to the lowers. If you order Moog, their arms have replaceable joints. Makes it cheaper in the long run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZRanger28 View Post
wjust get the moog and be done with it
THIS
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #33
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Yeah, just hit 140,400 on my way home today.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:49 PM   #34
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Yeah, just hit 140,400 on my way home today.
Then it's likely everything needs addressed. Now what about all the other questions I asked and comments???? Hmm....
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:03 AM   #35
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I owned it for 8 months on the 19th. No susp work done yet. All axle work. I'm pretty sure you hit the nail on the head mate. You seem to know what you're talking about.
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:21 AM   #36
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Must be that chain in the front
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:57 AM   #37
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My truck is the exact opposite i have 1.8 degrees positive camber....but i know what my problem is! lol Just don't have the money to fix it at the moment!
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:07 AM   #38
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Simple fix like I told you. Get 2 degree adj. camber bushings for the upper balljoint!
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:26 AM   #39
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actually, if your 4wd, you should have adjutable camber bushings
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L/S in rear. / .........................6'8 Sno-Way plow
HD Diff cover / ..................... OHC/Stang Dome

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Old 02-23-2012, 11:29 AM   #40
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Well, I just had my outer tie rod replaced on the passenger side, and it seems like it took a lot of it away. Before the tires start wearing funky, I'm gonna replace the drivers side and then probably ball joints. So hopefully it helps.
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